Fatty’s Burgers & More started out in San Antonio with a single mustard-colored building on East Commerce Street. In the last couple of years, two more locations have opened up. And given its growing reputation — it was included on Texas Monthly’s list of its 50 favorite burgers in the state — you can probably expect more yellow to come your way.
One bite should convince you of what the fuss is all about. What hits you first is the searing hot nature of the burger, delivered as quickly as possible. That means not everybody at the table gets served at once. So what, if it means a first bite that full of meaty richness.
The second element I generally notice is a touch of sweetness in the bun. Often, this can be overwhelming in a negative way, but it works at Fatty’s. Fresh tomato, lettuce, pickles and onions help build the basic Ref burger into a classic.
The sports-themed sandwiches also include a Slam Dunk Mushroom Burger, the Batter-Up Bacon Burger, the Knock-Out Jalapeño Burger and the Coaches Chili Burger. Recent additions include a veggie burger, a barbecue burger and, my favorite, the Brunch Burger with fried egg and grilled onions.
A BBQ Philly Sub and Philly Cheese Sub are also on the menu at the new locations, on Nacogdoches and in Converse. But I can’t bring myself to get past the burgers to try one. The burgers are that good, whether you smother them in grilled mushrooms and Swiss or spread fresh avocado on them.
Just as good as the burgers to me are the complimentary pinto beans offered in a help-yourself pot. The vegetarian dish is laced with just enough jalapeño to give them a little zip and a broth as clean and satisfying as you’d ever want.
The fries are crisp yet have a homemade quality to them, while the crisp, naturally sweet onion rings have justifiably earned their own praise.
One nice addition, at least to the Fatty’s on Nacogdoches Road, which is the one I have visited several times recently, is a variety of burger sizes. You can now get your favorites with a 4-ounce patty, an 8-ounce patty or a 1-pound stack. Any way Fatty’s serves it is fine with me.
Fatty’s Burgers & More
13777 Nacogdoches Road
9135 Schaefer Road
1624 E. Commerce St.
Lunch and dinner: Monday-Saturday