The restaurant is at the Fairmount Hotel, 401 S. Alamo St. It will open Monday at 11 a.m.
The location has been home to any number of restaurants over the years, some successful, some not. The interior is as inviting as we’ve ever seen it. The colors, ambient lighting, the roomy bar area lit up with sparkling glassware, wall tile and wood floors all work well.
The staff, some of whom transferred from other Dady restaurants, were enthusiastic in their role selling Insignia. Dady also owns The Lodge at Castle Hills, Bin 555 Restaurant & Wine Bar, Tre Trattoria and Two Bros. BBQ Market.
Insignia is billed as “modern American cuisine with global inspirations and Texas roots.” That covers a lot of territory, even if you left out Texas. But, the menu even gives San Antonio a nod, with a wood-fired pizza called The San Antonio, topped with barbacoa, cilantro, yellow onion and fresh avocado. Give us some salsa cruda on the side and it could be the city’s new official dish.
Fresh Maine lobster enchiladas, wood-oven-roasted salmon barbecue, bourbon-brined bone-in pork chops, and a signature “brisket burger” with tomato jam and American cheese on an English muffin all speak to Dady’s ability to pick confidently, and mix and match, from a world full of possibilities.
From the wood-fired pizza oven came a close-to-perfect Garden Pie, with sliced asparagus, lemon-spiked ricotta, cherry tomatoes and garlic oil. The Poblano Bisque was a soup after my heart (in a number of ways): cream, melted cheese and sour cream made up this rich soup that finished with the warm green burn of fresh poblano chile.
I didn’t sample the hand-drafted cocktails, as I was driving myself home. But here are just a couple of descriptions to whet your thirst: La Poire: Grey Goose La Poire with rosemary, pink peppercorns, vanilla and slice of pear. And, A Seeded Kiss: Remy Martin Cognac with cinnamon, clove, anise, fennel seed, vanilla, absinthe and cream.
The restaurant will be open 11 a.m. – 10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday; and 11 a.m. – 11 p.m. Friday-Saturday.