Simi Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2006 Fact: The cool climate of California's Russian River Valley is ideal for producing a Chardonnay that will remind you of fall flavors, from spiced apple to poached pear with just enough butteriness to please. The acid structure is strong yet not overwhelming, reminiscent of baked lemon. A well-balanced oak element adds richness. $20 a bottle. Feeling: As the fall weather comes on, turn to a full-bodied Chardonnay that will keep you warm yet invigorated. Pair this is with lobster or firm-fleshed fish. This is a whdite wine that also works like a red, pairing well with pork and even some lamb dishes.