The bluebonnets are spectacular this spring, and so is the jalapeño chicken-fried chicken at Radicke’s Bluebonnet Grill. Why this dish hasn’t been copied at any number of other Texas restaurants, I’ll never know. It’s your traditional chicken-fried treat, with plenty of crisp breading outside and juicy meat inside. But then the kick of jalapeño is added, lightly permeating each bite so that your taste buds coax the rest of your mouth into a smile. (A grilled version is also available. But what’s the fun in that?)
There was a touch of uncooked flour flavor to the cream gravy, on the side, but it was perfectly adequate for those who like it.
The Bluebonnet Grill has long been a fixture on W.W. White, and I think it’s because of the way the folks there make you feel at home. One way is by offering myriad side dishes, which range from beans to macaroni and cheese. Having all those choices reminds me of when I was growing up, when there was always more to a meal than just meat.
The soups are also old-fashioned and comforting. The one we sampled as was made with ham, and it came as a pleasant surprise, smoky and rich, with plenty of meat to match the vegetables.
The one letdown was the Beefy Bluebonnet Special, a blackened roast beef sandwich with grilled onions and peppers that was just too dry to enjoy. Perhaps a cup of au jus would help resuscitate it.
One visit was not enough to taste everything that tempted me, including the Buckaroo Burger, an open-faced bean burger that includes onions and chile sauce in addition to refrieds, cheddar and picante sauce. The daily specials are also worth investigating as the Bluebonnet promises handmade chicken and dumplings once a week.
Radicke’s Bluebonnet Grill
237 N. W.W. White Road
Breakfast and lunch Monday-Friday.