Jean-François Poujol, recently of Tost Bistro, and chef Zack McKinney have teamed up on Tribeca di Olmos, the latest restaurant to give the space at 4331 McCullough Ave. a go. They want to emphasize local ingredients in their food as well as house-made ingredients, such as pastas and pancetta.
If a recent happy hour is any indication, the place is headed in the right direction.
I met some friends, and we quickly jumped head first into the lineup of small plates, some of which are specially priced in the early evening and others that were just plain special.
We started with a 6-ounce short rib burger smothered in fresh mozzarella and a generous bowl of crispy calamari drizzled with lemon butter (though the pomodoro on the side needed a little oomph and some extra body).
A margherita pizza with Italian sausage added upon request disappeared quickly, while a tangy grilled Caesar had plenty of kick from roasted garlic.
Fried oysters perched atop house-made potato chips came with a bacon aioli, shaved fennel, apple strips and tiny bit of heat from sriracha. They’re worth investigating a second time.
Best of all were the warm brussels sprouts with cubes of pancetta and plenty of pecorino cheese tossed in a rosemary vinaigrette; on top was a poached egg that, when cut into, allowed the yolk to coat the sprouts.
If you’re not into sharing small plates, Tribeca also features a series of pasta dishes, including pork belly carbonara with its own poached egg and charred octopus and chorizo with gnocchi. Other pizzas: clams casino with bacon, wild mushroom and Italian sausage.
Entrees include Lockhart quail roasted in the pizza oven and served with creamy roasted red pepper polenta, pan-seared redfish with smoked heirloom tomato risotto; and a grilled hangar steak with roasted oyster mushrooms.
Tribeca di Olmos is open Tuesday-Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m., Saturday from 5 to 10 p.m. and Sunday 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. For information, call (210) 320-0698 or click here.