It was easy to choose the Boiler House as the first meal for Culinaria’s Restaurant Week: Of all the menus posted, it was the only one that offered three savory courses for the $35 price. Dessert could be had for an extra $6, but for three people who didn’t want — or need — a dessert, we found ourselves sitting pretty.
Our meal started with a choice of braised pork belly with a Kraken rum demi-glaze and house-made mustard, a variation on Chef Jeff Wayne White’s recipe, which we recently ran on SavorSA, or an attractive tower of salmon ceviche.
I started with salmon, and on yet another day that topped 100 degrees, I found the cooling mixture of diced raw seafood, avocado and cilantro-lime sauce to be perfectly refreshing. The pork belly, which my friends ordered, was substantial and deliciously porky, especially when a touch of the outrageously good whole-grain mustard was applied.
For an extra $25, you could get wine pairings for each course, the first of which was a Vanishing Point Pinot Grigio, bright and clean with a light fruitiness the complemented the pork while cutting through the silky voluptuousness of the avocado.
The second course was a local greens salad with plenty of applewood smoked bacon, nuts, cheese and tomatoes. A green goddess dressing had a surprising hot pepper tingle that worked well with the black peppery arugula in the mix of greens. The matching McDaniel Chardonnay was pleasantly clean and bracingly cold, balanced well with its oak flavor.
Main course options included a roasted salmon, a Kurobuta pork chop and prime rib.
One friend went for the pork chop, a massive piece of meat that was rich but slightly dry, despite a mention on the menu of a buttermilk brine; there were no complaints about the creamy white beans with the ham hocks that filled out the plate or the touch of red onion jam on the side. The pork came with a glass of Guard Shack Red Blend.
A generous slab of prime rib arrived with no side dishes, and it didn’t really need any. I had a delicious crust, with plenty of salt and the meat was tender, set in an onion-rich jus. The two of us who ordered the prime rib would have enjoyed our cuts cooked a little less, but we weren’t asked how we wanted it. The beef was paired with a fairly indifferent Wire Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon Blanc.
For an extra $9, you can add a trio of oysters Rockefeller to any plate, and I would suggest you add them, because they were the highlight of the evening. A welcome touch of heat cut through the cheesy sauce, which had coated spinach, garlic and, of course, the oysters. A little leftover Chardonnay was a perfect partner.
If you haven’t been to the Boiler House yet, which my friends hadn’t, don’t let Restaurant Week pass you by. It’s a great introduction to this lively newcomer to the Pearl Brewery.
The Boiler House Texas Grill & Wine Garden
312 Pearl Parkway
Lunch, dinner daily