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Rice Rules at Pearl Paella Party



Waldy Malouf’s Paella is artfully arranged with seafood and vegetables on top.

It was a beautiful day for a cook-off Sunday and the Pearl Brewery, in front of the Culinary Institute of America, offered a perfect setting for the first ever Cocina de las Americas. The big event was a Paella Cook-Off.


Rene Fernandez of Azuca stirs rice into a paella that he made out of competition during Sunday’s paella cook-off.

When the flames under the huge paella pans were extinguished in the afternoon, judges chose their winners. First place went to chef and restaurateur Ben Ford, of Ford’s Filling Station in Culver City, CA. Peter Holt and crew from Lupe Tortilla Mexican Restaurant in Houston,  took second place and San Antonio chef, Jeffrey Balfour of Citrus, at the Valencia Hotel, took third.

There were as many imaginative takes on paella as there were teams — 16 in all. These included celebrity chefs Waldy Malouf of New York (Beacon and Waldy’s restaurants in New York City) and Ford. Each team drew long lines, as attendees waited patiently for tastes of the famous, saffron-laced Spanish rice dish.

SavorSA was there, too. The writers of this article admit they had a few minutes of high excitement when the chef we’d been assigned to help ran late. Michael Gilleto, chef of a private club in New Jersey, flew in Sunday and arrived in the nick of time, but not before his two nervous assistants had dashed off to the huge food pantry in the middle of the grounds to snatch up ingredients. If Gilleto didn’t make it, we figured we’d pinch hit and make our own paella.


Chef Michael Giletto plates his paella for judging.

Gilleto showed up, though, and we were off — slicing, dicing, killing lobsters, cutting up whole chickens, cleaning shrimp and dashing around looking for a few ingredients we’d missed during the first mad rush.

Gilleto liked a classic-style paella, one traditionally more about rice and olive oil than about masses of seafood, chicken, chorizo and more ingredients piled high. We were with him on that.

Along with the usual ingredients in the pantry we noticed bags of chopped pineapple, hoja santa plants (sometimes called the root beer plant), ancho chiles and more. We said “yes” to the ancho chiles, which Gilleto wanted to flavor the stock, but we all tacitly agreed “no” on the pineapple.

One crew decorated their paella with julienned carrots. Another crew had help from one of their member’s grandmother, who hailed from the northern principality of Asturias, Spain.


bout 1,000 people, including families, turned out to the first paella cook-off.

Shelley Grieshaber, culinary director at the Pearl Brewery and CIA graduate, made her way from table to table doing the “color” interviews for the day. Johnny Hernandez, chef and owner of Pearl’s upcoming La Gloria restaurant, and driving force behind the cook-off, alternated roles between host and trouble shooter.

“We couldn’t have asked for a more beautiful day,” said Grieshaber, who was excited at the success of the event.

San Antonio Food Bank culinary students were on hand to assist. Chef Rene Fernandez of Azuca made a huge paella prior to the contest to serve to the hungry masses. Other San Antonio chefs in the competition included Jason Dady, Dave Souter and Brian West, as well as a crew from the R.K. Group and the Hispanic Chamber of Commerce.


Ben Ford, right, shakes hands with a fellow chef after winning the paella cook-off.

Proceeds from ticket sales will be going toward scholarship opportunities at the CIA San Antonio to benefit local chefs.  A portion of proceeds will also go to the San Antonio Hispanic Chamber of Commerce and the Office of the Honorary Council to Spain for educational initiatives benefiting San Antonio students. H-E-B/Central Market were presenting sponsors of the community event, in partnership with the Culinary Institute of America.

It was a fun competition, and one we hope to see again next year.

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Recipe: Chilled Seafood Salad With Herbed Olive Oil


scallopThis cool summer salad was adapted from a recipe on Epicurious.com with additions from Mario Batali and others. Feel free to modify it to your own tastes.

Chilled Seafood Salad with Herbed Olive Oil

1 pound cleaned squid
1 pound sea scallops, tough muscle from side of each discarded if attached
1 to 1 1/2 pounds medium shrimp (about 21-25 count), shelled and deveined, leaving tail intact
1 to 1 1/2 pints grape tomatoes, sliced vertically in half
Olive oil, to taste
Lemon juice, to taste
Sea salt, to taste
Fresh arugula for salad
Fresh lemon slices for garnish, if desired

Herbed Olive Oil:
3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, your very favorite
¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 fennel bulb, stalks removed and thinly sliced on a mandolin or in food processor with appropriate blade
2-3 scallions, chopped
3/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh flat-leafed parsley leaves (wash and dry  before chopping)
3/4 cup chopped fresh mint (wash and dry before chopping)
Coarse sea salt, to taste, plus additional for serving
Red pepper flakes (1 teaspoon or more, to taste, optional)

Remove flaps from squid sacs, if attached, reserving them, and cut sacs crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick rings. Cut reserved flaps into 1/4-inch-thick strips and halve tentacles lengthwise if large. Remove tough muscle from side of each scallop if necessary.

Have ready a large bowl of ice and cold water. In a large saucepan of boiling salted water, cook shrimp 1 minute, or until pink and just cooked through, and transfer with a slotted spoon to ice water to stop cooking.

Add scallops to boiling water and cook at a bare simmer 1 minute, or until just cooked through. Transfer scallops with slotted spoon to ice water to stop cooking.

Add squid to boiling water and cook 20 to 30 seconds, or until just opaque. Drain squid in a colander and transfer to ice water to stop cooking.

Drain seafood well in colander and transfer to a bowl. Chill seafood, covered, until cold, at least 2 hours, and up to 1 day. (You can do this at the last minute if you chill the seafood on your ice.)

About 1 hour before assembling, drizzle oil, lemon juice and salt, to taste, on top of tomatoes. Set aside.

To make herbed oil: To olive oil, add lemon juice, fresh fennel, scallions, parsley and mint. Toss. You can mix this up to 2 days in advance.

Place seafood in large serving bowl and toss with dressing, to taste. Garnish with tomatoes piled on top of salad; drizzle extra oil on tomatoes, if  necessary.

Divide arugula on six plates. Place a generous ladle of seafood salad on top of greens. Sprinkle salads with sea salt and red pepper flakes, serving each on the side.

Serve with a pinot grigio or  sauvignon blanc as well as flatbread or any French or Italian loaf.

Serves 6.

From Nancy Scott Jones by way of Epicurious.com, Mario Batali and others.

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