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An Oasis of Calm and Great Flavors at NIOSA


It’s Shrimp Parilla time at NIOSA. What are you waiting for?

Once the parked traffic on North St. Mary’s decided to move Tuesday afternoon, I was finally able to find a place to park and then rush several blocks to the Villa Espana area at A Night in Old San Antonio. I was late for my shift at the Shrimp Parilla booth, but chairman Mark Swanson didn’t seem to mind.

Booth chairman Mark Swanson displays his Shrimp Parilla.

His first crew had already begun assembling the shrimp skewers that would be grilled after NIOSA opened while he finished putting up the decorations, which included a pair of stuffed shrimp, strings of lights and more to brighten even more the already colorful booth.

I quickly fell into the habit of skewering alternate layers of marinated shrimp, green bell pepper and onions while chatting away with the rest of the team, which included several volunteers who work with Swanson beyond their volunteer time on behalf of the San Antonio Conservation Society. 

In midst of the convivial chaos that is NIOSA, the Shrimp Parilla booth proved to be an oasis of calm. Taking their cue from the laid-back Swanson, the team did their jobs with a sense of dedication but without rushing. While Swanson’s son, Wesley, chopped peppers and onions, we put enough skewers together to last longer than our two-hour shift. Swanson, who has worked the booth for about 12 years and has been chairman for the past two, paid attention to the grill and the heat level of the coals underneath. Others sold the skewers once they were ready, and two marched out front with signs designed to lure in the hungry masses.

For the past 18 years, I’ve worked at a different food booth each NIOSA. I started with Maria’s Tortillas and have gone through the booths that produce fried mushrooms, Yak-i-tori skewers, Cowboy Klopse, shypoke eggs, bean tacos, Bongo-K-Bobs, escargots, fried green tomatoes, anticuchos and more. I can honestly say that I haven’t worked a booth as straightforward and stress-free as this one. After the hassle of the traffic and the pace of the workday, it was a welcome relief. 

And the Shrimp Parilla tasted great, too.

“We really do not have a secret recipe,” Swanson insists. 

A customer gets his Shrimp Parilla.

Perhaps that’s why Shrimp Parilla would be an easy treat to recreate at home.

All you have to do is marinate jumbo shrimp as well as the chunks of peppers and onion in Italian salad dressing. Then thread the pieces onto moist kebab sticks, starting with a pepper or an onion, the alternate each with a shrimp in between. Place the kebabs on the grill over high heat and grill them until the shrimp turn from translucent to white and the tails begin to look crisp, Swanson says. The grilling takes no more than 15 minutes and includes turning the skewers once. If you pay attention, you should know just what to look for after your first batch. 

When you remove the skewers from the grill, top them with your favorite spicy seasoning before serving. The booth uses what Swanson calls “lemon pepper and redfish seasoning.” (Cajun chef Paul Prudhomme marketed his own Blackened Redfish Magic, but here’s a recipe if you want to make your own. Or you can tone down the heat if it’s not to your liking.) The end result is both fresh and refreshing, something I can see myself serving at home in the future.

It’s time to make the shrimp skewers.

 

“Even though there’s nothing really special done to them,” Swanson says, “they sure taste really good.”

If you’re looking for a snack at NIOSA that won’t leave you feeling heavy, give Shrimp Parilla at NIOSA a try. You’ll likely take this flavor of NIOSA home with you, too.

A Night in Old San Antonio, which benefits the San Antonio Conservation Society, continues through Friday. For more information, click here.

Mark Swanson finishes decorating the Shrimp Parilla booth at NIOSA.

Other scenes from the opening of NIOSA include images of San Antonio partygoers enjoying the great weather and some time spent with friends.

What’s NIOSA without some wonderful hats?

Churros fresh out of the fryer.

Lines for the fried mushrooms are always long.

Great weather and great crowds at NIOSA.

 

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Use Moroccan Charmoula on Shrimp, Beef, Cheese — The Choice Is Yours


Shrimp Charamoula2Charmoula is a Moroccan sauce that’s been described as being an African chimichurri sauce. It’s great on beef, chicken, you name it. Jeff Wayne White of the Boiler House Texas Grill and Wine Garden at the Pearl Brewery recently served it at a party with lamb kebabs and had people lining up for more. You could also use it on goat cheese and toast for a quick appetizer.

I recently came up with my own variation and tossed it with some firm, flavorful gulf shrimp from Groomer’s for a quick lunch.

What I love about sauces such as this one is that the measurements don’t have to be exact. You’re making a dish that tastes the way you want it to. If you want more parsley than cilantro, for example, switch the proportions — or just use parsley. Use a good glug of olive oil if you want a thinner sauce. It’s your taste buds that matter. Just remember to adjust the seasonings before you use it.

Shrimp with Charmoula

1 pound shrimp

Charmoula:
1/2 bunch cilantro
1/4 bunch parsley
2 teaspoons sweet paprika
3 garlic cloves
1/3 teaspoon toasted cumin seeds, or less, to taste
1/2 teaspoon salt, or more, to taste
Coarsely ground black pepper, to taste
Dash of Cayenne pepper (optional)
Juice of 1 lemon
Olive oil

Mixed field greens, for serving

Cook the shrimp however you choose, such as boiled or sautéed. Set aside to cool slightly.

While the shrimp are cooling, make the sauce: Place the cilantro, parsley, paprika, garlic, cumin, salt, pepper, cayenne pepper, if using, and lemon juice in a blender or food processor. Start blending. Slowly add a little olive oil, until the mixture reaches the consistency you like; it can be thick or thin. Taste and adjust seasoning. (I like a lot of freshly cracked black pepper and cayenne, but I use far less cumin than many would suggest. You can also vary the recipe by adding in a few mint leaves, sorrel, chives or other fresh green herbs. Want more lemon flavor? Zest the peel into the mix before you juice it.)

Peel the shrimp. Toss with enough sauce to cover. You may have some sauce left over, depending on how much oil you use. It can be refrigerated and used within a few days.

If you want to serve the shrimp warm and they’re cold at this point, you can reheat them slightly in a saucepan.

Arrange field greens on a plate. Top with shrimp. Serve.

Makes 2 main course servings or 4 appetizer servings.

From John Griffin

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